DO'S & DON'T
Never wash a hot bike. Cold water on a hot engine can cause chrome to crack or the engine block to stress.
Plug the pipes: Use a rag or exhaust plug to keep water out of the pipes.
Remove bags: If you have leather saddlebags, take them off to clean the areas behind them and to treat the leather separately.
Wash the wheels first so that the grime you spray off doesn't land on freshly cleaned paint.
Use a dedicated wheel brush to get between spokes. Pro Tip: Avoid tire "shine" products on the treads—it makes the tires slippery and dangerous for cornering.
Two-Bucket Method: Use one bucket for soapy water and one with plain water to rinse your mitt. This prevents rubbing grit back onto the paint.
Bug Soak: Don't scrub bugs; you'll scratch the clear coat. Lay a wet, warm microfiber cloth over the bug-heavy areas (fairing/headlight) for 5 minutes to soften them up first.
Harleys have endless "nooks and crannies" where water hides. If you let it air dry, you’ll get water spots on the chrome.
Use a leaf blower or a dedicated motorcycle dryer (like a HOG Blaster) to force water out of the engine fins and bolt holes.
Chrome: Apply polish with a microfiber pad, let it haze, and buff it off.
Engine: Spray engine brightener on the black powder-coated parts of the motor to hide "whitening" caused by heat and road salt.
Paint: Apply wax to gloss areas. If you have Denim (Matte) paint, only use a matte-specific spray. Do not buff denim paint, as friction creates a permanent shine.
Don't use a Pressure Washer: It can force water into sealed bearings, electrical connections, and the intake. A standard garden hose is plenty.
Don't use Paper Towels: They are made of wood pulp and will leave "spider web" micro-scratches on your tank. Use only clean Microfiber.
Don't wax the seat: You'll slide right off the bike the first time you hit the brakes. Use a dedicated leather or vinyl cleaner that doesn't leave a slick residue.